Phil loves Amurc'n food. |
My friend Philipp came all the way from Indonesia to surf with me in California. Which is an idiotic thing to do. Indonesia has the best waves on the planet.
Naturally, the water in Southern California was cold and flat due to La Nina.
Cold, small waves with Point Conception in the background. |
At 4 am we left for Jalama, which is just north of Point Conception, below which is considered Southern California. Above Conception, you can catch north swells which are blocked by the point. (Point Conception's a real dick cock-blocker for SoCal surfers.)
After surfing, while we enjoyed a couple of life expectancy-shaving Jalama burgers, a local told us some shark stories. A guy had recently been sawed in half by a great white just a few miles north at Vandenburg Air Force Base. I was glad to get the story after surfing.
They say Southern California is full of pussies.
Phil is pretty funny. He doesn't give a fuck. |
Why is there a monkey in a cage on the side of a river? It's Indonesia, that's why. |
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